A humble youth, a rebellious adolescence, and now years of easy
stability: You and American blue jeans have a lot in common. Jeans are
the most democratic piece of clothing in your closet, but the so-called
everyman pants don't look the same on every man—or in every generation.
Maybe Seinfeld's high-waisted jeans (and high-top sneakers) were okay in
the '90s, but they look dorky today. President Obama, who's worn frumpy
dad jeans in the past, has learned the error of his sartorial ways.
With a little guidance, you can do better too.
Rise Above the Fray Buying jeans with whiskering
at the pockets, fading on the legs, and a few minor abrasions is a
convenient way to avoid a long break-in period. But if you opt for the
distressed look, keep it minimal and choose your scuffs wisely, says
Francine Rabinovich, founder of Denim Therapy, a denim repair shop in
New York City. If the damage is on areas that distress naturally, such
as knees and back pockets, you're in the clear. But if it's in odd
places, like the shins or thighs, it'll look fake. "It's just so
inauthentic," says Rabinovich.
Don't: Be a Clean Freak
The less you launder
frayed and distressed denim, the better. The processing that creates the
whiskering effect and fading degrades the integrity of the fabric, so
your jeans can wear out quickly with excessive laundering. And when you
do wash them, don't toss them in a dryer and further damage the weakened
fibers. Instead, turn them inside out and air-dry them flat, advises
Rabinovich.
The Length of Your Shirt Matters Too short and
it looks like a crop top; too long and nobody notices how great your
jeans fit. The proper shirt should fall around the top or middle of your
back pocket, says Durand Guion, VP and men's fashion director at
Macy's.
Don't: Tuck and Run
For every shirt you own, decide whether you plan to wear it tucked. If yes, leave it long. If not, take it to a tailor.
Yes, You Should Wear White Jeans Just be sure to
nail the fit. "White isn't slimming, so the jeans should be a little
snug," says Guion. Then avoid the bright, pastel, Miami Vice look;
rustic accessories, like a chambray shirt with suede desert boots, look
great.
Do: Change Shades
If white seems too bold, try sand-colored jeans. They're subtler, easier to keep clean, and still hipper than khakis.
Treat Your Jeans Like Dress Pants Yes, even your
denim deserves a trip to the tailor, says Greg Sato, a Los Angeles
designer and marketing manager at Levi's. "Jeans can be dressed up," he
says. But they won't look good unless they fit you correctly.
Do: Give It a Spin
Run your jeans through a wash cycle before having them altered. They're cotton, so they'll shrink slightly.
Or, Hell—Just Cuff Them Want to save a tailor's
fee? Just roll the legs up. But the trick only works with selvedge or
otherwise stiff denim that already fits great in the waist. And the legs
should be narrow—don't even try it with your boot-cut jeans.
Don't: Leg Out
An office-friendly cuff just covers the top of your shoe. If your socks show before you sit, the cuff is too high.
Pick Your Cuff The Single: It's quick and classic: Just fold up the bottom 1 1/2 inches and crease it.
The Double: Fold it up 1 inch and then give it an extra roll. Go higher for a casual look.
The Messy Triple: Feeling leisurely? Roll a half-inch cuff, double it over twice, and leave it rumpled.